Plumbing Upgrade Guide: Repiping, Modernization, and What It Costs in 2026

Your home's plumbing is invisible until it fails. And when it fails—a burst pipe at 2 AM, a slab leak slowly destroying your foundation, lead leaching into your drinking water—the consequences are severe and expensive.

Repiping a whole house costs $4,000 to $15,000 depending on the home's size, pipe material, and accessibility. A complete plumbing modernization—including repiping, water heater replacement, fixture upgrades, and drain line work—can run $10,000 to $30,000+.

This guide covers when your plumbing needs upgrading, what materials to use, what each component costs, and how to plan the project.

Signs Your Plumbing Needs Upgrading

Pipe Material Red Flags

The most urgent reason to repipe is the material itself:

Lead pipes: Found in homes built before 1930 and in some service lines through the 1980s. Lead is a serious health hazard. If you have lead supply pipes, repiping should be a priority. A water test ($20–$50 from a certified lab) confirms lead levels.

Galvanized steel: Standard in homes built from the 1930s through the 1960s. Galvanized pipes corrode from the inside out, restricting water flow and eventually leaking. If your home has galvanized pipes and they're original, they're 60–90 years old and living on borrowed time.

Polybutylene (PB): Used from the late 1970s through the mid-1990s (often gray, blue, or black flexible pipes with copper or plastic fittings). Polybutylene reacts with chlorine in municipal water and becomes brittle, leading to sudden failures. Insurers often won't cover homes with PB piping, and many real estate transactions require replacement.

Copper (pre-1970s with lead solder): Copper pipe is excellent, but joints soldered before 1986 may contain lead solder. This is less critical than lead pipes but worth testing, especially if you have young children.

Performance Warning Signs

Even if you don't know your pipe material, these symptoms suggest problems:

Low water pressure throughout the house (not just one fixture)
Discolored water — brown, yellow, or rust-colored water when you first turn on a tap
Frequent leaks in different locations
Visible corrosion on exposed pipes (green patina on copper, rust on galvanized)
Water tastes or smells metallic
Water heater failing prematurely (sediment from corroding pipes)
Pinhole leaks — tiny leaks in copper pipes, often caused by aggressive water chemistry

Age-Based Guidelines

As a general rule:

Lead pipes (any age): Replace as soon as possible
Galvanized steel (60+ years): Plan to replace within 1–3 years
Polybutylene (any age): Replace proactively
Copper with lead solder (40+ years): Test water; replace solder joints or repipe if lead levels are elevated
Copper in good condition: Can last 50–70 years; monitor but no rush
PEX or CPVC (modern): Expected to last 40–50+ years

Pipe Material Options for Repiping

PEX (Cross-Linked Polyethylene)

Cost: $0.50–$2.00 per linear foot (material only)

PEX has become the dominant choice for residential repiping. It's flexible, resistant to freezing (it expands instead of bursting), doesn't corrode, and installs much faster than copper because it can be snaked through walls with fewer joints.

Pros:

Cheapest material option
Fastest installation (lower labor costs)
Freeze-resistant
Doesn't corrode or develop pinhole leaks
Quieter than copper (no water hammer)

Cons:

Can't be used outdoors (UV degrades it)
Not suitable for hot water lines near water heaters (use copper stub-outs)
Some early concerns about chemical leaching, though current PEX formulations are well-tested and approved by all major plumbing codes

Copper

Cost: $2.00–$5.00 per linear foot (material only)

Copper is the traditional premium choice. It's durable, proven, and has a long track record.

Pros:

Proven 50–70-year lifespan
Can be used indoors and outdoors
Doesn't leach chemicals
Higher perceived value (some buyers prefer copper)

Cons:

2–3x the material cost of PEX
Longer installation time (soldered joints)
Can develop pinhole leaks in areas with aggressive water chemistry
Susceptible to freezing and bursting

CPVC (Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride)

Cost: $0.50–$1.50 per linear foot

CPVC is a rigid plastic pipe that handles both hot and cold water. It's cheaper than copper but not as flexible or easy to install as PEX.

Pros: Affordable, doesn't corrode, handles hot water Cons: Brittle over time (especially in cold climates), more joints than PEX, can crack if stressed

Our recommendation: PEX for most residential repiping projects. It offers the best combination of cost, durability, and ease of installation. Use copper for outdoor runs and the short connections near the water heater.

Repiping Cost Breakdown

Whole-House Repipe

For a typical 1,500–2,500 sq ft home with 2–3 bathrooms:

Component	PEX	Copper
Materials	$500–$1,500	$1,500–$4,000
Labor	$3,000–$7,000	$5,000–$10,000
Drywall repair	$500–$2,000	$500–$2,000
Permits	$100–$500	$100–$500
Total	$4,000–$10,000	$7,000–$15,000

Factors That Affect Cost

Home size and number of fixtures: More bathrooms and fixtures mean more pipe and connections.

Accessibility: Single-story homes with crawl spaces or unfinished basements are cheapest to repipe because the plumber can access pipes from below without opening walls. Two-story homes with slab foundations are the most expensive because accessing pipes requires cutting into floors or walls.

Slab foundation: If pipes run under or through the slab, the plumber may either tunnel under the slab or reroute pipes through the attic and walls. Rerouting is more common and often cheaper than slab penetration.

Wall repair: Repiping requires access holes in walls. A good plumber minimizes these, but plan for drywall patching and painting. Some plumbing companies include drywall repair; others don't.

Water Heater Upgrades

If you're modernizing your plumbing, the water heater is worth evaluating at the same time.

Tank Water Heater

Cost: $800–$2,500 installed

40–50-gallon tank is standard for a 2–4-person household
Gas models are cheaper to operate than electric
Lifespan: 8–12 years
Takes up floor space (about 2x2 feet)

Tankless (On-Demand) Water Heater

Cost: $2,500–$5,000 installed

Heats water only when you need it
Gas models deliver 8–10 GPM (enough for 2–3 simultaneous uses)
Electric models deliver 3–5 GPM (better for mild climates or point-of-use)
Lifespan: 15–20 years
Saves $100–$200/year in energy costs vs. tank models
Requires annual flushing to prevent scale buildup

Heat Pump Water Heater

Cost: $2,000–$4,000 installed

Uses electricity but 2–3x more efficient than a standard electric tank
Qualifies for federal tax credits (up to $2,000 under current IRA provisions)
Needs space (they're taller than standard tanks and need airflow)
Works best in unconditioned spaces like garages (they cool the surrounding air)
Lifespan: 12–15 years

When to Replace

Replace your water heater if:

It's more than 10 years old (tank) or 15 years old (tankless)
It's leaking from the tank (not repairable)
It's not producing enough hot water despite proper settings
Repair costs exceed 50% of replacement cost
You're repiping anyway (saves on labor since the plumber is already there)

Drain Line Upgrades

Supply pipes (the ones bringing water in) get most of the attention, but drain lines matter too. Old drain lines can cause sewage backups, slow drainage, and even foundation damage.

Common Drain Pipe Materials

Cast iron: Standard in homes built before 1970. Lasts 50–75 years but eventually rusts and collapses. If your cast iron drains are original and your home is 50+ years old, inspection is wise.

Orangeburg (bituminous fiber pipe): Used from the 1940s through the 1970s. Made of compressed tar paper. Collapses and deforms over time. If you have Orangeburg, replacement is inevitable.

Clay tile: Used in older sewer laterals (the line from your house to the city sewer). Susceptible to root intrusion at joints and cracking.

PVC/ABS: Modern standard. Lasts 50–100+ years. This is what you'll replace old lines with.

Sewer Line Replacement

Cost: $3,000–$15,000

Traditional sewer line replacement involves trenching your yard to access the line. Trenchless methods (pipe bursting or pipe lining) minimize disruption:

Pipe bursting: A new pipe is pulled through the old one, breaking the old pipe apart. Cost: $3,000–$8,000.
Pipe lining (CIPP): A resin-coated liner is inserted and cured in place inside the old pipe. Cost: $4,000–$10,000.
Traditional trenching: Dig up the old pipe and replace it. Cost: $3,000–$15,000 depending on depth and length.

Camera Inspection

Cost: $200–$500

Before replacing drain lines, get a camera inspection. A plumber feeds a camera through the drains to see their condition. This prevents unnecessary replacement and identifies the exact problem. Every homeowner with a home older than 40 years should get a camera inspection of their main sewer line.

Planning a Complete Plumbing Modernization

If you're doing a full plumbing upgrade, here's a logical order:

Camera inspect drain lines — Know what you're dealing with underground
Repipe supply lines — Replace old galvanized, lead, or PB pipes
Replace the water heater — While the plumber is there and supply lines are fresh
Address drain lines — Replace failing cast iron or Orangeburg
Upgrade fixtures — New faucets, toilets, and showerheads
Repair access points — Patch drywall, repaint

Bundling Saves Money

Doing plumbing work together is significantly cheaper than doing it in separate projects. The plumber is already on site, permits are combined, and access holes serve multiple purposes. A complete modernization done at once might cost $15,000–$25,000, while the same work done over three separate projects could cost $20,000–$35,000.

Water Quality Improvements

While you're upgrading plumbing, consider water quality:

Whole-house water filter ($300–$1,500 installed): Removes sediment, chlorine, and some contaminants. Extends the life of fixtures and appliances.
Water softener ($1,000–$3,000 installed): Essential in hard water areas. Prevents scale buildup in pipes, water heaters, and appliances.
Pressure regulator ($200–$500 installed): If your water pressure exceeds 80 PSI, a regulator protects pipes and fixtures from damage.
Expansion tank ($100–$300 installed): Required by code in many areas for closed-loop systems. Prevents pressure spikes when the water heater heats water.

DIY vs. Professional

DIY-Friendly

Replacing individual faucets and showerheads
Installing a toilet
Replacing under-sink supply lines (braided stainless steel)
Installing a point-of-use water filter
Basic drain cleaning

Always Hire a Professional

Whole-house repiping
Water heater installation (especially gas)
Sewer line replacement
Any work requiring soldering or main water line work
Anything requiring permits

How to Choose a Plumber

Licensed master plumber or licensed plumbing [contractor](/blog/diy-vs-contractor) — verify with your state licensing board
Experience with repiping — ask how many whole-house repipes they've done
Itemized written estimate — materials, labor, permits, and drywall repair should all be listed
Warranty — most reputable plumbers warranty their work for 1–2 years; pipe manufacturers warranty materials for 10–25 years
Insurance — general liability and workers' comp

Get three quotes. For a standard repipe, quotes should be within 20%–30% of each other. Major outliers deserve scrutiny.

Attic Insulation Guide
[Basement Waterproofing Guide](/blog/basement-waterproofing-guide)
[Bathroom Addition Cost](/blog/bathroom-addition-cost)
[Best Home Renovations for Resale Value in 2026](/blog/best-renovations-for-value)
[Electrical Panel Upgrade Guide](/blog/electrical-panel-upgrade-guide)

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to repipe a house with PEX?

$4,000–$10,000 for a typical 3-bedroom home with 2 bathrooms. Costs vary based on home size, number of fixtures, accessibility, and local labor rates.

How long does a whole-house repipe take?

2–5 days for most homes. A single-story home with a crawl space can be done in 2–3 days. A two-story home on a slab takes 3–5 days. Add 1–2 days for drywall repair and painting.

Should I repipe with copper or PEX?

PEX for most situations. It's cheaper, faster to install, freeze-resistant, and has a proven track record. Copper is preferred for outdoor runs, visible installations where aesthetics matter, and areas with specific code requirements.

Can I stay in my house during repiping?

Usually yes, but you'll be without water for portions of each day. The plumber will shut off water during work and restore it at the end of each day. Plan for some inconvenience—arrange somewhere to shower if your bathrooms are affected.

Does repiping increase [home value](/blog/appraisal-process-explained)?

New plumbing protects your home value rather than increasing it—buyers expect functional plumbing. However, homes with known plumbing problems (polybutylene, galvanized, lead) sell for 5%–15% less, and some buyers walk away entirely. Repiping removes a significant negotiation point and inspection objection.

Is polybutylene piping really that bad?

Yes. Polybutylene has a well-documented failure rate. It was the subject of a major class-action lawsuit (Cox v. Shell Oil). Many insurers won't cover homes with PB plumbing, and it's a red flag on every home inspection. Replace it proactively rather than waiting for a failure.

How do I know what kind of pipes I have?

Check exposed pipes in your basement, crawl space, or under sinks. Galvanized steel is silver-gray and magnetic. Copper is copper-colored. PEX is flexible and colored (red for hot, blue for cold). Polybutylene is gray, blue, or black flexible plastic. If you're unsure, a plumber can identify your pipe material during a basic inspection ($100–$200).

Plumbing Upgrade Guide

Key Takeaways